Overview

We have always loved a drought vintage, and dreaded them too. Droughts are a particular kind of torture for a farmer: waiting and counting every inch of rain, hoping for more, remaining unsatisfied. But they can result in deeply compelling wines, and 2022 was no exception.

The 2022 vintage was characterized by low yields and very even maturation, resulting in wines of great concentration but sadly very low volumes. It was the third year of drought in California, which combined with difficult spring weather, reduced the crop to just 55% of normal for Pinot Noir, and 45% for Chardonnay. 

The resulting wines are dense yet not tannic, with incredible fruit concentration. The summer was quite mild, and the light intensity was close to average. This kept tannins in balance, despite the drought conditions which can often result in elevated tannin. The wines are comparable to 2015, a vintage with similarly low yields and similar summer weather. 

Detailed History

We received around 50” of rain in the winter of 2021/2022, slightly more than half of normal for our region. The previous two winters were very dry, and this accumulated stress led to lower fertility in the vines in 2022. This was visible even before bloom in the reduced number of clusters, and in their small size.

Budbreak started on the earlier side of average, on March 12. The spring was very cold, with a bitter winds off the ocean that delayed shoot development. After a very dry start to the year, June saw a significant rainfall event, which further decreased the yields by damaging the delicate grape flowers. Shatter was extensive in certain fields, especially on the Raschen and East Ridges, and in the Maritime Fields.

At the end of June, it finally started to warm up. Most of July was wonderfully warm, and veraison started at the end of the month. A return to cold and foggy weather in early August elevated disease pressure, especially in the Chardonnay, further reducing yields. 

In mid-August it warmed up significantly, and with the light crop, ripening moved quickly. Despite the heat, acid held and the sugars moved at a measured pace. We started the Pinot Noir harvest on August 22. A few days later, it cooled off dramatically, which is always beneficial during harvest, giving us a long and ideal picking window. Heat returned on September 4, and we finished the harvest shortly thereafter.

The 2022 Wines

The 2022 wines are notable for their dark fruit profile, dense and glossy texture, and gentle tannins. The Pinot Noirs are dark, glossy, and sapid, yet with freshness and charm. Most can be enjoyed young and will not require much time in the cellar.

The 2022 Chardonnay is one of the finest we have ever produced, with a texture and density unlike any we have seen before. Sadly, quantities are extremely limited. 

In 2022, we produced the following wines at Hirsch Vineyards:

2022 HIRSCH VINEYARDS ESTATE CHARDONNAY
Just 3.9 acres of Chardonnay are planted at Hirsch, and from this we produce one white wine per year. Originally planted by David Hirsch for Williams Selyem, we now keep all the Chardonnay grapes for the estate. The 2022 Chardonnay is an exotic, rich and concentrated expression of our site. The wine is silky and textured, with incredible energy and freshness. One of the most delicious and mouthwatering Chardonnays we’ve ever produced.

2022 HIRSCH VINEYARDS ESTATE ROSÉ
Serious rosés are made from serious fruit, and this wine is no exception. Made with 100% Hirsch Pinot Noir grapes, the grapes were harvested at close to the same time we pick for red Pinot Noir, ensuring a complete ripeness profile in the final wine. The grapes were destemmed and macerated overnight, before being pressed. The juice was barreled down into oak barrels for fermentation, with no added yeast or stirring. Approximately 24% new oak was used. After ten months in oak, the wine was bottled. It was then aged in bottle for another ten months before release. This winemaking process is very similar to how we make our Estate Chardonnay, and quite unusual for rosé. The long, natural fermentation in barrel, combined with extended lees aging, has resulted in a wine with great depth and personality.

2022 HIRSCH VINEYARDS ‘BOHAN DILLON’ PINOT NOIR
The Bohan Dillon is an affordable world-class Pinot Noir that brings to your glass the full spectrum of the True Sonoma Coast. Precociously charming and utterly quaffable, this wine is produced using the exact same winemaking methods and with the same attention to detail as our other pinots. The Bohan-Dillon Pinot Noir is made from three West Sonoma Coast sites: the Hirsch and Hellenthal vineyards, situated contiguous to each other, and the Heintz vineyard, located 20 miles south of us. Intended to be drunk young, it’s accessible and delicious on release.

The 2022 San Andreas is classic, elegant and consummately Hirsch. The nose evokes our wild coastal mountains, with aromatics of dried sage, wild mint and wet stone adding interest to notes of Bing cherry and Alpine strawberries. There’s a hint of the Pacific Ocean in its mineral, saline character. The palate is juicy, fresh and high-toned, with lithe tannins and a very long finish.  The San Andreas is showing very well already, although we do recommend giving it an hour of air before drinking.

2022 produced a stellar example of the East Ridge Pinot Noir. Upon opening, concentrated aromatics of muscular dark fruit immediately bring you to the East Ridge. Cherries and dried cranberries intermingle with notes of dried wild herbs, rose, anise and a hint of wet stone. The palate is dense but juicy, with a massive structure and chiseled tannins. Always one of our most tannic wines, the 2022 East Ridge will need time to unwind. We recommend holding for at least two years before drinking.

The 2022 West Ridge may prove to be the wine of the vintage. Purity, refinement and focus define this wine. High-toned and elegant, the aromatics are classic West Ridge: perfectly ripe cherries, fresh strawberries, rose petal and a hint of orange oil. The palate is a seamless journey of silky tannins, mouthwatering acidity and pure, focused fruit. This wine is open and expressive, and it can be enjoyed now if given an hour of air. However, there is still a touch of tightness on the palate which would benefit from a few years in the cellar.  

2022 HIRSCH VINEYARDS ‘FAMILY BLEND’ ESTATE PINOT NOIR

2022 HIRSCH VINEYARDS ‘MARITIME’ ESTATE PINOT NOIR

2022 HIRSCH VINEYARDS ‘RASCHEN RIDGE’ ESTATE PINOT NOIR

2022 HIRSCH VINEYARDS ‘BLOCK 8’ ESTATE PINOT NOIR

2022 HIRSCH VINEYARDS ‘RESERVE’ ESTATE PINOT NOIR